Friday, March 12, 2010

Red Lines of Portland

I’ve been in Portland long enough that I can safely say I’ve figured out where the red lines are. If you live here, you know what I mean. If you don’t live here, chances are your town has its own borders that nice girls and boys are not supposed to cross.

People say things like, “Harold drives a Ford and lives out by Clackamas Town Center, if you know what I mean.” I have to restrain my sarcasto-reflex to stop myself from responding with, “No, actually, I don’t know what you mean. Unless you’re trying to say that Harold is poor and kind of trashy so that you’ll look better by comparison? But surely that’s not what you’re saying, because gee, that doesn’t reflect well on you.”

This quadrant-ism is so freakishly prevalent that when trying to pick a happy hour location with a coworker yesterday, she laid out her requirements like so: “I won’t go over the hill on the weekends, and I won’t go past 82nd.” This was her way of saying that she is wealthy and hip enough to live downtown, and urbane enough to avoid the suburbs like the plague.

In case any of you are thinking of moving here, I have drawn a map to help you quickly get up to speed on where all the “right” kinds of people live:


As you can see, the city is neatly divided into four parts for convenient segregation of the haves from the have-nots. All political correctness aside, here is how it was explained to me when I moved here: Southwest is downtown (tall buildings, people with smartphones.) Northwest is yuppietown (coffee shops, people with smartphones and skinny jeans). Northeast is the ethnic ghetto, and Southeast is the white ghetto.

If you can swing it, it’s best to live on the west side, but if you absolutely must live on the east side, the rules are as follows: Live above Holgate (preferably above Foster) and west of Powell. Live below 60th, but preferably below 39th. If you live on the West side, your best bet is the alphabet district if you’re inclined to hipsterism (delineated by the hipster glasses, above) or the Pearl if you’re inclined to use a hair straightener. You should probably work downtown in a tall building (see drawing of briefcase), but if you can’t manage that, you can serve $10 drinks at a Northwest bar until you’re30. After 30, people will start wondering if you should move to the East side.

The problem is this: Limiting yourself geographically is also limiting experientially. The same people who refuse to leave the 20-block radius around their condos are the same people you’ll find extolling the virtues of world travel and blathering on about how their trust-fund funded trip to Europe changed their lives by broadening their horizons. As someone who has lived in both Marin County and Oregon’s Illinois Valley, I can tell you that you don’t have to leave the country to have your mind blown by cultural differences.

So what’s the give? Once they’re back in the States these worldly folks are suddenly no longer interested in traversing outside their comfort zones, or meeting people with different backgrounds than their own? Why have the same people who bore me with 12,000 pictures of the natives in Nepal, complete with narrative about the mind-expanding qualities of learning about different cultures, decided that they will only socialize with their own kind when they’re on their home turf?

And - if you live here, what are the neighborhood stereotypes you know of? Longtimers: Have they changed?

18 comments:

  1. I slept on a piss-stained train station platform in Hamburg, surrounded by vagabonds, and it was one of the best nights of my life. If there's such a place in Portland, point me in the right direction the next time I'm there.

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  2. You are always welcome to my porch anytime you're in Portland.

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  3. Well said. I always felt that the mind-blowing travel stories were very consistent with this approach to life. It's like going to the zoo, or circus.

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  4. Good point, Patrick. I feel like exotic travel, for some, is just another form of conspicuous consumption. The main difference between a trip to Asia and a trip to the Food4Less on 82nd is, after all, cost.

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  5. Ha ha.. all I know is every time I end up in Portland I get turned around and find myself headed to Lake Oswego..

    Although Beaverton, Tualatin, and Janzten Beach are as much apart of Portland as The Queens, Bronx and Manhatten are part of New York..

    I'm not sure I'd find myself around the actual city unless I've lived there for 5 years or more..

    Good Luck with the snubbery.. I'm sure you still find a way to be culturally diverse anyway..

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  6. i lived there for 6 and still got turned around most of time

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  7. I'm amazed at some native Portlanders' "forbidden zones" on the east side. Oooh no, a Vietnamese restaurant!

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  8. JoAnna and Sarah: I still get lost all the time, and all signs point to this continuing indefinitely. I had to go to the Pearl for a work function a few weeks ago and on my way home ended up getting on the freeway going the exact opposite direction and had to be talked through my way back home. Any bigger of a city and I think my head would explode.

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  9. Rob: For realsies. Portland is kind of like Ashland in that there aren't any actual "real" ghettos. The forbidden zones exist only in people's heads.

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  10. Thanks for dropping in on my blog.
    I like your observations. What I think is it's hard to be hip in Portland.
    It's kind of like being old that way.
    I used to live in Portland (worse than that: Beaverton! For the school district! The shame of it all!) and now I'm old. So I've missed out on being hip all around.

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  11. It takes way too much work to be hip in Portland. Choosing an outfit that looks effortlessly cool alone could take hours, and the cash it would take to eat out, then bar-hop, then hobnob with the glitterati, then get breakfast/brunch and go to coffee and art openings is just too much for me. I, for one, plan to be un-hip forever.

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  12. Excellent analysis. However, SE rules! Who wants to get run over by a range rover?

    The neighborhood thing is deeply personal. Very much in keeping with Portland's tribal nature.

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  13. You're right that Portland is crazy-tribal, but I don't necessarily know if that's a good thing. I'd also argue that the neighborhood thing is both personal and political. Each quadrant or neighborhood is chosen and beloved by its residents for essentially the same reasons -- that's why neighborhoods end up being made up of the same kinds of people.

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  14. You can't live west of Powell. Powell runs East/West.

    Similarly, Foster runs at an angle, so living 'above' Foster really requires clarification. And I would question anyone who recommends living inside the quadrant known as Felony Flats. Call me elitist, but I do live on the East side.

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  15. Geometrically speaking, a point can exist "above" a line that runs at an angle.

    And not all of SE is Felony Flats.

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  16. this is waaay late in the game, seeing as this post is over a year old, but seriously, if you're going to be a portlander, get your quadrants right, as in there are five parts to the city. Where the hell is N portland in this?

    /rant from random stranger

    PS: anyone who is afraid to leave the west side is retarded

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  17. Random stranger - you're right, where the hell is North Portland? It's like I'm some kind of super-evil Portland Nazi, spreading disinformation to the five people that read this blog! Someday I'll add to this super hi-res map an extra section for NoPo.

    Other random stranger - typo. West of Powell should read South of Powell. I'll fix it one day when I decide to become the Official Anthropologist of Portland Neighborhoods.

    And I'm with Edwin here - points can and often do exist above angled lines. And lots of parts of SE are very nice - Sunnyside, for example, and the Clinton St. area are places I wish I could afford to live. Also, agreed about the afraid-to-leave-the-west-side people. Except for that particular epithet - I'd say they're more "elitist pigdoggies." Semantics, shmantics.

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  18. " It's like I'm... spreading disinformation to the five people that read this blog!"

    not a risk i'm willing to take.

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